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生産者インタビュー 04 京都府宇治市 吉田利一さん

生産者インタビュー 04
京都府宇治市 吉田利一さん2018/02/02

King of Green RIICHI

丸利吉田銘茶園16代目吉田利一氏の
名前を冠したプレミアムボトリングティー。詳細を見る >

本簾(ほんず)覆い下栽培を今も継承されているのですね。

葦(よし)を編み、竹と丸太でやぐらを組む昔と同じやり方です。

覆い下栽培とは玉露や碾茶の生育方法で、新芽の成長期に遮光して葉に旨み成分を蓄えます。現在よく使われている黒い覆い(寒冷紗)を開発するまでは、毎年すべての玉露茶園に葦を編んだ簾とわらを被せていましたが、今は伝統を継承するために一部の茶園にだけこの方法を残しています。

でも、茶摘みの時期になったら乗せていたわらを土の上に落として土壌づくりをする、という部分は今も取り入れているんですよ。農業は土が命。肥培管理は徹底しています。
うちの茶園はほとんど手摘みで一番茶のみ。全国的に見て宇治茶の生産量がわずか3%と少ないのは、安心・安全で良質なお茶というブランドを守っているからです。

全国有数の吉田銘茶園16代目の重責を担ってこられました。

おじいさんから教えられたこと。それはもう身に染みています。

私の親父が若くして不慮の事故で亡くなってしまったので、会社の経営から品評会への出品、各種団体の役員までを突然受け継ぐことになりました。30歳の時です。とまどいましたが、まずは家を大事にしなければ良いものを作れない、という思いで家族と一緒に無我夢中でやってきました。

第一回全国茶品評会で農林水産大臣賞を受賞したうちのおじいさんは、絶えず茶園を見回り、草1本、蜘蛛の巣ひとつないほどに茶園を大切にする人でした。その姿を見ていたので、教えは身に付いていたと思います。

吉田さんのお茶づくりにおける信念とは何でしょうか?

“煎のきく”お茶。何回も楽しんでもらえるお茶です。

「ペットボトルのお茶はのどを潤す、急須で淹れたお茶は心を潤す」と、私はよく言っています。うちでは、毎朝8時に息子が仕事をしに茶園に来たら、まずはみんなでお茶を飲むのが習慣です。

その時に飲むお茶は、玉露のかりがね。お客さんが来られた時にも、亭主がその場でお茶を淹れてもてなします。使い捨てではないお茶の文化というものを、宇治の郷から伝えていきたいと思っています。

「玉露は高級で自分で買うものではない」と思われているかもしれませんが、一度淹れたら4煎、5煎と楽しめますから、実はそんなに高いものでもないですよ。

おいしく淹れるコツは、とにかく茶葉を多めに入れること。葉っぱを多めにしてお湯を少な目にすれば、誰でもうまく淹れられます。口の中でふわーっと広がる香りを楽しみながら、ゆっくり味わってほしいですね。

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